December 30, 2011

The RRP Lead Paint Rule!

Let's Do It!

Renovation, Repair, and Painting otherwise know as the RRP Rule:
Peeling Paint- Is It Lead? Test it!

Lead paint - if your house was built before 1978, then this article is for you. On April 22 2008 the EPA placed into effect the RRP Rule. It requires that all businesses and their employees conducting Renovation, Repairs, or Painting work, on pre-1978  built homes, child care facilities, and schools, to be certified by the EPA to follow lead safe work practices.
           The required training is basically to educate you on the three main procedures used when working with lead contaminated items or areas:        
                                                       Containment of the work area.
                                                        Minimize the airborne particles
                                                        Clean Up

You need to see this logo.
Just as important as doing the work correctly is the book keeping.

December 28, 2011

Gutter Cleaning! Gutter Guards!


Snap In Type Gutter Guards!
          Today is the day! It's my first post back after the Christmas Holiday, and we're talking Gutter Cleaning! I got this idea while standing at a family members sink, looking out the window, and seeing the water come out over the top of the gutters. I thought everyone had "Gutter Guards" now a days. The do it yourself models, or install it yourself models, do the job quite nicely, and there is no reason to go for the really expensive ones, unless you like the looks. If you are building a new home then it may be a nice upgrade to get the better ones. You'll need a pro to install the more advanced systems, but a home owner can install the snap in types found at your local Hardware store. Below are the links

December 22, 2011

All about Popcorn Ceilings!

        We're putting them in for some people and taking them out for other people. We repair them for insurance work, Fires, and Flooding. Here is the deal!
Pop Corn Ceiling!
         
          The main item of importance when dealing with older pop corn ceilings is the asbestos problem.
Asbestos, was banned from being manufactured for use in popcorn ceilings way back in 1978. Suppliers and contractors were allowed to finish using up their stocks of the banned material, so it is assumed it may have been used in houses as late as 1980.

Testing:  We test all pop corn ceilings on houses built from 1980 or earlier. A test can cost from $50.00 to $250.00. If your popcorn ceiling tests positive for asbestos, then you must observe all hazardous material removal instructions, safety, and disposal precautions.

Proper gear for removing Asbestos.
Safety Precautions:  These include full body coveralls including the feet and the head, Rubber, Nitrile gloves, Proper respirator with HEPA filter, and goggles or face shields if the possibility of eye irritation exists. The area must be sealed off.

Area Preparation:  Remove all room furnishings. Cover the walls and floors with plastic. Plastic should be of a thickness that it will not tear during the removal process. Turn off all ventilation and seal all the registers in the room.  Create a negative air flow. If a vacuum will be used it must contain a HEPA filtration system.

Pop Corn Texture Removal:  Material shall be wetted with water. You can use spray bottles, or a garden sprayer. We use 4 inch drywall knives to scrape the material off the ceiling. Material must bagged while wet.



Ready for Asbestos Removal!






 
If your ceiling has been painted over, removal will be much harder. Consider the option of removing all of the ceiling drywall and reinstalling it new, or to slick the ceiling on top of the popcorn texture. Slick the ceiling is just the term for remudding, or applying a layer of drywall compound to make the ceiling slick again.


Disposal:  Use plastic bags 6 mil thick and double bag it, taping each bag individually with duct tape and then label the outside of the bag.  Include coveralls and all plastic used to cover the room. Indiana asbestos products can be disposed of in a land fill, but check your state for it's regulations.


          While it is allowed, asbestos removal is not a job for the home owner. Due to the very real dangers associated with it. Asbestos is the leading cause of Mesothelioma, and Asbestosis. Due to the safety equipment and safety precautions required. We recommened it should be done by the Professional.

Asbestos removal for Indiana homeowners.
http://www.in.gov/idem/files/la-012-gg.pdf

Indiana Asbestos requirements for Commercial/Industrial Application.
http://www.in.gov/idem/4187.htm#determining

December 19, 2011

Lets talk Framing Hammers!


Vaugn Dalluge Titanium
16oz 18 " Hickory
$174.00
          I've been using a 22 oz Est wing for years now. I have a collection of Hammers that makes most men and some women envious. I've got Tack hammers, Ball peens, and the basic Claw. I've got Finishing and Framing hammers. I've got them you can replace the face on. I have them in all shapes and sizes. I've got them in Wood, Fibreglass, and Metal.  I like hammers.
Milwaukee Rip Claw
Titanium 16 oz.
$189.00

          I've used steel hammers all my life. Over the past few years there has been a new material that has improved the job of nailing quite a bit. Titanium is much lighter weight than steel and hits the nail with the same force. That's the primary purpose of a hammer, to deliver a blow to an object. The less force used to deliver the blow the better off it is for the user. In particular the users elbow.

         Buying a Hammer!


Est Wing
22 Oz. Steel
The most popular hammer ever!
 $24.00 

          First consideration is it's use. For framing it's a waffle iron, or milled face. We do use smooth face on our Decks and Fences tho. Pick it up. How does it feel? It should feel natural. That's the best description of balance I know of. Move it around, swing it. It should almost swing itself. Does the grip fit your hand. Compare the different weights, and lengths. Shape of the claw. Steel heads are less expensive than titanium but the titanium hammer prices are coming down. If the handles are made of wood it should be hickory. There are many different designs and handle to head connections. Learn how to use a wood handled hammer properly, and it will not break nearly as often. But keep another handle in the truck to change out when needed. Steel handled hammers are a lot better today and basically last forever. Est wing has been the leader in handle recoil development for the steel hammers. If you do a lot of construction then a top of the line hammer is required. The best hammers can run from $60.00 to $200.00. They are lighter, have a more ergonomically correct design for the handle grip, and a better design to increase the hammers striking force, in addition their constructed to reduced the amount of recoil many times over,  versus the older hammers. Today, you can be very choosy when selecting a hammer, just about everyone has gotten into the market. Get one with the features you like. Do not overpay, some companies charge exorbitant prices. Often times you can search a little and get the same hammer for a better price. Here are some to check out. 

Douglas, Extreme Rip Claw
20 oz Hickory Handle
$68.00


Vaughan Hammers


Est Wing
Dewalt
Douglas


Stanley

Dalluge

December 12, 2011

Setting a Post!

             It can be a post for a mail box, a flower pot holder, a fence post, or even a clothes line. Yep, people still have these and if our energy bills get any higher we may all go to using them.
          First make sure you have the right post for the job. It can be metal or wood. For wood, make sure it is Pressure Treated and rated for ground contact. Different pieces of lumber have been treated differently, and not all are rated for ground contact. Metal can be Galvanized, such as used for chain link, Aluminum, and Iron. Pick the most proper one for your use.
          Next is the hole itself. The shape is just as important as the size. All post holes should be bell shaped. That means wallowed out wider at the bottom than the top. A'la - Bell Shaped. This prevents heaving when the ground is frozen. Heaving is the frozen ground tightening around the post and forcing it toward the path of least resistance - up and out of the ground. The wider part, the bottom of the bell shape, will be located deep enough in the ground so it is past the frozen part and therefore will hold the post during the freeze / thaw cycle. This is the main cause when you see a Fence Post leaning over. The post were not set correctly. To wallow out the bottom of your hole simply take your post hole diggers and chip away the earth from the sides near the bottom of the hole. It does not have to be much wider at all - just slightly wider than the diameter of the rest of the hole is enough to do the job. Remove all loose dirt from the hole. Next, using a tamping bar, tamp down the bottom of all holes, making a solid, hard packed surface. This will prevent any settling effect from the weight of the posts and concrete when placed in the hole.
          When determining the post hole size and depth, Click the Link, located below this article and use the table to determine the size of posts needed for the type and size of fence you are building. For most other applications, mail box posts and so forth, a basic 4x4 (PT) will suffice. Make sure the sides of the hole are smooth and cylindrically shaped. We dig most of ours with augers, however we still use post hole diggers quite a bit. Fill the bottom with approx 3 to 4 inches of gravel to promote drainage. This is very important. Most people do not know it, but concrete is a very porous material. Being porous is the main cause of concrete driveways cracking. Water soaks into the concrete and the freeze/thaw cycle will do its job and crack the concrete. To avoid this cracking around a post, put the gravel at the bottom. This helps to keep the post and concrete well drained.
          Mix concrete according to the bag directions. In general, concrete must be well mixed. Do this with short handled spade in a wheel barrow. For small amounts you may use a plastic five gallon bucket, and a small garden, hand spade. If your are not a pro, only mix 1 bag at the time, wheel barrows are easier to turn over than people think. Mix the concrete to a mashed potato type consistency. It should pile up on the shovel. Take care not to mix any dirt in with the concrete as you are working it, or pouring it. Dirt weakens concrete substantially. Level your post and shovel the concrete in the hole to about 4 inches from the surface. If possible leave the hole open for a day or two to help the concrete dry, then cover it with dirt. In the winter time we use a special additive to help in drying of the concrete.
         Posts can be set with dirt alone, although you must tamp, tamp, and tamp some more to get it set really firmly. All Western Red Cedar or White Eastern Cedar post must be tamped in as concrete will cause the post to rot, and should not be used. Dig the hole the same as above, put the post in and level in all directions. Add a few inches of dirt then tamp down soundly, add a few more inches and tamp down again, continue this process all the way to the top. If you tamp hard enough that post will be set as good as in concrete.  

Check this Link out to see our Fence Post standards!
        It tells you the size of post to use for the fence you plan to build. It also tells you the diameter of the post hole and how deep it should be.
Link for Post Depths for the size of Fence you are building!

December 10, 2011

The Big Deck!

Everyone needs a Big Deck!

Funny Comedy on Wood Decks.

Click the link!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QQ7Ue5emo6I&feature=player_embedded

A Better Built Fence!

          It's the end of summer and we're full into fall  - and we are right in the end of Fence building season. A customer this week asked me the standard question that all people in business get from time to time. Basically what makes yours better than the last guy? Having seen thousands of fences in all their various stages of repair, I'm well versed in this subject.
First of all -
          Is there even a business behind the guy you see, or is it just him. How did you find out about him? Through a legitimate source or your Aunt Wilma's friend at the VFW knows him.  Does he pay for  legitimate advertising? Business License - check it. Contractors License?  Liability Insurance - check.  Does he look he is financially stable? Does he look the part of a contractor or a helper. Can he talk all the lingo of his trade. Is his Estimate in line with the other estimates. Is his forms professional or just written on a piece pf paper. Company letterhead, Hat  or shirt? Does he know about the correct permits? Does his company meet the OSHA safety standards?
          We'll start with how the business is ran. How long has he been in business, does he have enough time working in his trade that he has that vast amount of experience in all phases of Fence installation. No matter how good you may have been as a worker, that first year on your own in business is a doozy. I personally learned more in my first year as an owner, than the previous 6 as a worker. Does he have the proper finances, to carry a job of any scope. It's reasonable for a contractor to ask for 30% to 50% down for materials. If he does not, then he may cut corners that you can't see or don't know about, and he nickles and dimes, you, the customer on materials or work quality. That means you are not getting what you pay for.
          After making sure there is a business after the name, the first item is work Ethic. You need to check references. Does he show on time. Does he meet deadlines if applicable.
          Then comes his materials quality. Fence products come in all qualities. Make sure you're getting, and that he supplies, what you really want. Don't leave the decisions up to him. Ask yourself these questions. What are the measurable qualities of the fencing materials he's selling or installing. How thick are they? Do they rot - how soon? How tall? Does it do what it's supposed to do. Does it keep the animals in? Do you want that design?
          You don't have to be an expert in fencing or running a business but you should do some due diligence on your part. Then ask questions and some more questions. Hope this helps.

December 7, 2011

The Environment!

                                        To pour or not to pour a concrete driveway?

          My friend Star Eaker, modern women of the world she is, has a lot of trees. She also has a creek gravel driveway, that is slightly hard to walk on. Big nice house, creek gravel driveway?  When I asked why she didn't put in concrete, as it was obvious that she could afford it. She said it was because of the trees. She had 2 located within 8 feet of the now gravel drive. It's surprising how you don't take things into account the way other people do sometimes. She didn't want that concrete drive because it might affect or even kill the trees. They wouldn't get water all the way around and would not grow as strong a root system. Good for her. Being in construction for most of my life I am used to seeing the bare lots we build on. I've tried to keep my "Green Meter Pegged but I just grew up in different era. I was glad to get a different point of view. I think I'll actually give customers the option of what kind of drive they would like. Of course most home owners associations make concrete a standard thing these days. They may have to change their thinking too!
                                                             Thank you Star!