Fixing Peeling, or Raised Drywall Tape!

          This is a problem every homeowner encounters sooner or later. While watching your team blowing the lead in the forth quarter you look up at the ceiling in exasperation, to see the drywall tape coming loose. But this house is only 4 years old you say. Welcome to home ownership we say.
This job depending on your level of dexterity and desire to do your own maintenance can be accomplished by a home owner. If not then call your local painter. This will be a basic job for them. Sometimes tape raises seemingly of it's own accord. But it only looks that way. There are 2 general causes - 1. It wasn't applied properly the first time, and 2. Moisture, most likely from a water leak somewhere, (this is the problem in most cases).
          Fixing this problem is easiest on flat surfaces. Corners require a little more technique, and with surfaces such as popcorn ceilings it's a little more complicated. First, using your box cutter, cut out the raised (non-sticking) portion of tape. Scrape out any remaining loose/deteriorated material around the edges. Take your dust brush and dust out the area. Dust will prevent a good bond between the old and new surfaces and may cause the patch to fail. Use your scraper or a sanding block and lightly smooth any rough/raised edges made by your box cutter. Try to be detailed in your work. Mix your Drywall mud according to directions. Using the proper size taping knife for the width of your damaged area, apply a thin layer of mud approx level with the surfaces on either side of the damaged area. Next cut a length of mesh tape overlapping the damaged area by about a 1inch on each end. Mesh tape has a sticky coating so it will stick to mud and dry Sheetrock. Depending on the width of the cutout it may be necessary to use more than 1 length to cover the areas width. Use another length or 2 as necessary to overlap the outer edges by a 1/2 inch or so. Use your drywall taping knife to smooth the mesh tape onto the surface of the wet drywall mud. Then apply another layer of drywall mud over top of existing mud and mesh tape. This time overlap both ends and edges by several inches. Try to taper the edges of your mud layer so they blend into the existing surface of drywall without a ridge. The top layer of mud should not be over 1/8 inch thick. The thicker the mud the more sanding you will have to do to get a smooth surface. Do not keep smoothing and thereby over work the mud. Let dry overnight. Use rectangular sponge type sanding blocks of a couple different grits. Start with 100 grit and then finishing with 175 will usually do the trick. If you have a sanding head and drywall sanding mesh screen you can use it but it is not necessary for small patches. Use a dust mask approved for the fine dust released when sanding drywall mud. A shop vac is also recommended for this fine dust as most household vacuums are not up to the task. At least 1 more coat of drywall mud will be necessary and most times a 3rd application is necessary for a finished look.. The surface will not be flat but if you overlap the original damage by several inches and sand smooth, it can certainly appear so.
For Textured areas it is the same process except for having to remove the texture around the damaged area in order complete the job. For areas where the tape is peeling on textured walls or ceilings we recommend you consult a professional, as sometimes the texture cannot be matched and other options such as total removal of the texture may be necessary.

Tools needed are: Box Cutter Knife
3 or 4 Various sized taping Knives
Mud Pan
Mesh Type Tape (Mesh works much better than paper for repair work)
Lightweight Drywall Mud or Sheetrock compound (Blue top or box)
Ladder (appropriate size)
Dust Brush
Shop Vac - Vacuum Cleaner
Scraper
Scissors
Optional Tools: Extension Pole with sanding Head
Sanding Screens