As we all know this market is a tough nut to crack. Due to the current Democratic Administration's policies against business, no one is sure of their job anymore. The only jobs open are for $10.00 an hour or less. And THEY STILL WON"T SECURE THE BORDER, and send the illegals home. Those things Obama does to keep us from being successful and course the mortgage mess that Killed real estate, has has our economy stuck in neutral. You remember the old Bill (Cigar) Clinton who lowered the mortgage loan standards, resulting in all this mess. Well, it's killed Real Estate deader than a doorknob. Democrats keep your grubby communist hands off the FREE MARKET.
And now we get the news that the real estate market has declined again for the 3rd month in a row.
Theres still a few Gay Liberals still supporting the Kenyan but they are falling fast. I wonder why he doesn't do whats good for America and just decline to run. Lyndon Johnson knew he wasn't going to get elected and didn't run. Is Obama so insulated from whats going on that he still thinks people en-mass are going to vote for him again? Surely someone around him is telling him the truth. Barrack you don't have a Tinkers chance in hell.
I know plenty of people in Real Estate and Construction who are trying to hang on, and just keep food on the table. Three months in decline and the band plays on. Here comes old man winter. Wonder if Hussien has taken up fiddling like Nero, when Rome burned.
November 30, 2011
November 27, 2011
Choosing Paint Colors and Paint Schemes!
Interiors and Exteriors are different concepts so we decided to give them each the attention they deserve!
The Interior!
Some people like to be bold and utilize rich color, some like soft earth tones, still others say muted pastels are the only way. We've seen enough to know that "everything" is OK. When perusing the Spring or Fall decorating mags they'll all purport to tell you what colors, and decorating styles are in for that time of year. We say poppycock to that. Every person has their own unique since of taste and style.
The best way to choose paint colors is to know what you like. Go to your closet and check the colors and patterns in there, look at your furniture, look at decorating magazines and see what attractions you have there. A "Paint Color Fan chart" is indespensible to you, as is a basic "Color Wheel Chart". You may pick up a fan chart where you buy you paint or your painter will supply you one, and a wheel chart from your local Hobby Lobby store.
Colors can be broken down into 4 different types as listed:
Hues - Bold Primary colors, they are the purest, and brightest colors. These would be described as Bold, Exciting, and Cheerful. They would be used for attention getting ads, and childrens toys.
Tints - Also called Pastels, are any color with white added. Tints are described as soft and girlish, they are found in baby's books, and little girls rooms, and female clothes. They are predominatly feminine.
Shades - Shades are simply any color with Black added. They are predominately masculine and work well in Mens offices, on outdoor Decks and Fences, Pick up Trucks, Movie rooms and Trophy rooms.
Tones - Tones are achieved by adding both Black and White in differenting amounts. The most pleasing to the eye of all the colors. Described as complex, they can be mixed and matched to a greater variety of other colors. They are the pros favorites for Interior Decorating.
To begin, we take into account 8 things,
Room size - Lighter colors make it large, darker shades maker it smaller. As a rule with higher cielings, you can use darker colors on the walls.
Existing Furnishings - Match to the largest items, or blend your color to match the predominate colors of the items in the room.
Lighting - Natural is the best, curtains open or closed. Accent lighting is reccommended for dark colors.
Use - Who uses it, what is it used for?
Design Style - Is it country, French provincial, Log Cabin, America West, Italian, Ultra modern, Why limit yourself - make up your own.
Cielings, white or colored - If it is white, as a rule you may use darker colors, if it is colored the walls should be no more than 2 colors up the color chart. Ceilings should always be lighter than the walls.
Trim color - White, or one of the many white colors is standard. Colored Trim is fine. It can be considered Masculine or Elegant, and works best in larger rooms.
Theme - Is there one? Sports, baby's, Gothic (Yes, Gothic, you never know with these teenagers) LOL!
Begin by using the color wheel to pick either Complementary, near Complementary, or Monochromatic colors. Complementary Colors on a wheel chart will be found opposite each other.
Some classics include the Red and Green Christmas colors, or Black and Orange for Halloween. Near complementary colors are just one removed from the direct opposite on the wheel chart. For example if the exact opposite is Orange shift to one space over and you may get burnt Orange. Monochromatic is the art of taking one Hue and repeating it in various Shades, Tints, and Tones. Monochromatic colors are often seen when painting colored walls above and below a chair rail, or when matching ceiling trays to the walls in a bedroom. When using the three methods of the wheel chart operation, you may use these colors for the same room or to carry you paint scheme throughtout your house. If your house is open then you will want to make sure you have transference from room to room. If it is a closed room you may go with any color scheme you like and won't have to be bothered with how it goes with any other room.
When you've got it narrowed down to two or three colors, pick up some sample pints of paint and paint a 3X3 aquare sample on the walls. Two coats so it will look like a finished paint job. Look at it in the daytime and at night. Keep it there for a few hours, or days, whatever it takes to make your decision.
Above all make sure the colors chosen work for your home, not all of them will, and make sure you are happy. Good Luck!
The Interior!
Some people like to be bold and utilize rich color, some like soft earth tones, still others say muted pastels are the only way. We've seen enough to know that "everything" is OK. When perusing the Spring or Fall decorating mags they'll all purport to tell you what colors, and decorating styles are in for that time of year. We say poppycock to that. Every person has their own unique since of taste and style. Paint colors can help set the mood of a room from playful, to business, homey, to elegant. Colors, - tones, shades, hues, and tints, can make a room seem smaller (cozy/snug/intimate) or large (spacious/roomy/open). They can make them masculine or feminine, modern or classic. They can describe any era, mood, or use.
Colors can accent a rooms strengths and hide it's faults.
Colors can be broken down into 4 different types as listed:
Hues - Bold Primary colors, they are the purest, and brightest colors. These would be described as Bold, Exciting, and Cheerful. They would be used for attention getting ads, and childrens toys.
Tints - Also called Pastels, are any color with white added. Tints are described as soft and girlish, they are found in baby's books, and little girls rooms, and female clothes. They are predominatly feminine.
Shades - Shades are simply any color with Black added. They are predominately masculine and work well in Mens offices, on outdoor Decks and Fences, Pick up Trucks, Movie rooms and Trophy rooms.
Tones - Tones are achieved by adding both Black and White in differenting amounts. The most pleasing to the eye of all the colors. Described as complex, they can be mixed and matched to a greater variety of other colors. They are the pros favorites for Interior Decorating.
To begin, we take into account 8 things,
Room size - Lighter colors make it large, darker shades maker it smaller. As a rule with higher cielings, you can use darker colors on the walls.
Existing Furnishings - Match to the largest items, or blend your color to match the predominate colors of the items in the room.
Lighting - Natural is the best, curtains open or closed. Accent lighting is reccommended for dark colors.
Use - Who uses it, what is it used for?
Design Style - Is it country, French provincial, Log Cabin, America West, Italian, Ultra modern, Why limit yourself - make up your own.
Cielings, white or colored - If it is white, as a rule you may use darker colors, if it is colored the walls should be no more than 2 colors up the color chart. Ceilings should always be lighter than the walls.
Trim color - White, or one of the many white colors is standard. Colored Trim is fine. It can be considered Masculine or Elegant, and works best in larger rooms.
Theme - Is there one? Sports, baby's, Gothic (Yes, Gothic, you never know with these teenagers) LOL!
Begin by using the color wheel to pick either Complementary, near Complementary, or Monochromatic colors. Complementary Colors on a wheel chart will be found opposite each other.
Some classics include the Red and Green Christmas colors, or Black and Orange for Halloween. Near complementary colors are just one removed from the direct opposite on the wheel chart. For example if the exact opposite is Orange shift to one space over and you may get burnt Orange. Monochromatic is the art of taking one Hue and repeating it in various Shades, Tints, and Tones. Monochromatic colors are often seen when painting colored walls above and below a chair rail, or when matching ceiling trays to the walls in a bedroom. When using the three methods of the wheel chart operation, you may use these colors for the same room or to carry you paint scheme throughtout your house. If your house is open then you will want to make sure you have transference from room to room. If it is a closed room you may go with any color scheme you like and won't have to be bothered with how it goes with any other room.
When you've got it narrowed down to two or three colors, pick up some sample pints of paint and paint a 3X3 aquare sample on the walls. Two coats so it will look like a finished paint job. Look at it in the daytime and at night. Keep it there for a few hours, or days, whatever it takes to make your decision.
Above all make sure the colors chosen work for your home, not all of them will, and make sure you are happy. Good Luck!
We'll do the Exterior another time Thanks to all, and have a great day!
November 23, 2011
Patching a hole in drywall!
CAUTION: Prior to 1980 many joint compounds and the Sheet Rock itself contained asbestos, which is a known carcinogen. Ensure you take all precautions when working with Sheet Rock installed prior to this date. Always use eye protection and a high quality dust mask.
Materials:
Various size taping knives - 6" and 10" is most popular and easiest for beginners
Mud Pan
Sheet Rock Compound
Self adhesive Mesh Tape - best for repairs
Sanding Sponges or Pole sanding setup using mesh screens
Dust barrier
Most everyone gets a small ding in a wall. For the ones that are smaller than say a quarter of an inch, in diameter, you can use lightweight spackle. For anything larger go ahead and use the regular Sheet rock Joint Compound. There are basically 2 types - lightweight and regular, the difference is thickness and weight. We prefer the regular, but if you are not used to mixing joint compound and using a taping knife, then the lightweight is for you. It comes in a dry mixture in bags, or pre mixed in plastic bucket containers. The bags obviously will last longer, as you only mix what you need then store the bag until needed again. The plastic buckets come in 1 gal., 2 gal., and 5 gal., containers. As they are not ready to use out of the bucket, both types will require some mixing with water. Use only enough water to mix to a warm "cake icing" consistency. Too much water will dilute the product and cause excessive shrinkage and also dilute the adhesive. For a small amount you can mix it right in a metal or plastic drywall pan with your knife. But for a large job use a paddle type mixer attached to your drill and mix in the bucket. Be careful not to mix too air into it, you may get air bubbles in the finished product. Mix slowly. Keep the top on your container when not in use to keep mud from drying out. For smaller dents and dings just smooth the compound into the surface with your drywall knife, leaving a small amount above the surface to be sanded smooth when dry. For nail pops, use a smooth faced hammer and tap nails back into the drywall just below the surface. Try not to break the sheetrock paper when hammering. Never put more than an 1/8" inch layer of compound product on at the time. For actual holes, all the way through in the drywall, take a box knife and trim all the chipped or jagged edges around the hole creating a smooth edge. Cut a new piece of drywall board (patch piece) wit a screw attached to the middle of it, that will fit thru the hole so you can grip it and pull it up snug from the inside of the wall to the outside. Then attach a couple of screws around the edges of the existing hole and thru the patch piece drawing the patch piece up snug, and sinking the draw wall screws just below the surface. Fill the hole area with mud compound up to and even with the surface (as compound will sag it may take a couple of applications to build it up even with the existing drywall surface. Then apply self adhesive drywall mesh tape. Over lap the hole by atleast 2" inches on each side of the hole. It may take more than one width to cover the hole. Apply thin coating of mud overlapping the tape by approx 8" to 10" inches on all sides. Feather the edges. Let dry,then sand if necessary and re-coat with compound. It may take up to 3 coats. Your mud pattern should be wide enough so as to give the appearance of the wall being a flat surface again, even though it will be a slight elevation in this section of the wall. Allow to dry for 24 hrs. between coats. There are also many excellant metal/fiberglass patches sold in the big box stores that are applied basically the same way.
Always store left over material in a cabinet off the garage floor.
QUICKSET JOINT COMPOUND or HOT MUD
A great product for the pro. It contains glue and dries much faster and harder than normal drywall compound. It is also harder to sand, so you need to be more exacting in it's application, and not put on too much. Has a range of drying time from 5 to 210 minutes and shrinks less than standard drywall compound. Not really recommended for the home owner or beginner.
Sanding materials that are used for drywall are the basic sponge type sanding block, and the mesh type sanding screen that can be attached to a metal head to be used in conjuction with an extension pole, for large surfaces. These items come in all the grits that regular sand paper comes in. Depending on the size of the job you may want to set up a dust barrier this may be as simple as closing the room door or setting up a plastic wall.
Check out these links:
http://www.dap.com/product_details.aspx?product_id=61
http://www.buzzle.com/articles/quick-set-hot-mud-and-drywall-repair.html
http://www.askthebuilder.com/B387_Ten_Secret_Drywall_Finishing_Tips.shtml
Materials:
Various size taping knives - 6" and 10" is most popular and easiest for beginners
Mud Pan
Sheet Rock Compound
Self adhesive Mesh Tape - best for repairs
Sanding Sponges or Pole sanding setup using mesh screens
Dust barrier
Most everyone gets a small ding in a wall. For the ones that are smaller than say a quarter of an inch, in diameter, you can use lightweight spackle. For anything larger go ahead and use the regular Sheet rock Joint Compound. There are basically 2 types - lightweight and regular, the difference is thickness and weight. We prefer the regular, but if you are not used to mixing joint compound and using a taping knife, then the lightweight is for you. It comes in a dry mixture in bags, or pre mixed in plastic bucket containers. The bags obviously will last longer, as you only mix what you need then store the bag until needed again. The plastic buckets come in 1 gal., 2 gal., and 5 gal., containers. As they are not ready to use out of the bucket, both types will require some mixing with water. Use only enough water to mix to a warm "cake icing" consistency. Too much water will dilute the product and cause excessive shrinkage and also dilute the adhesive. For a small amount you can mix it right in a metal or plastic drywall pan with your knife. But for a large job use a paddle type mixer attached to your drill and mix in the bucket. Be careful not to mix too air into it, you may get air bubbles in the finished product. Mix slowly. Keep the top on your container when not in use to keep mud from drying out. For smaller dents and dings just smooth the compound into the surface with your drywall knife, leaving a small amount above the surface to be sanded smooth when dry. For nail pops, use a smooth faced hammer and tap nails back into the drywall just below the surface. Try not to break the sheetrock paper when hammering. Never put more than an 1/8" inch layer of compound product on at the time. For actual holes, all the way through in the drywall, take a box knife and trim all the chipped or jagged edges around the hole creating a smooth edge. Cut a new piece of drywall board (patch piece) wit a screw attached to the middle of it, that will fit thru the hole so you can grip it and pull it up snug from the inside of the wall to the outside. Then attach a couple of screws around the edges of the existing hole and thru the patch piece drawing the patch piece up snug, and sinking the draw wall screws just below the surface. Fill the hole area with mud compound up to and even with the surface (as compound will sag it may take a couple of applications to build it up even with the existing drywall surface. Then apply self adhesive drywall mesh tape. Over lap the hole by atleast 2" inches on each side of the hole. It may take more than one width to cover the hole. Apply thin coating of mud overlapping the tape by approx 8" to 10" inches on all sides. Feather the edges. Let dry,then sand if necessary and re-coat with compound. It may take up to 3 coats. Your mud pattern should be wide enough so as to give the appearance of the wall being a flat surface again, even though it will be a slight elevation in this section of the wall. Allow to dry for 24 hrs. between coats. There are also many excellant metal/fiberglass patches sold in the big box stores that are applied basically the same way.
Always store left over material in a cabinet off the garage floor.
QUICKSET JOINT COMPOUND or HOT MUD
A great product for the pro. It contains glue and dries much faster and harder than normal drywall compound. It is also harder to sand, so you need to be more exacting in it's application, and not put on too much. Has a range of drying time from 5 to 210 minutes and shrinks less than standard drywall compound. Not really recommended for the home owner or beginner.
Sanding materials that are used for drywall are the basic sponge type sanding block, and the mesh type sanding screen that can be attached to a metal head to be used in conjuction with an extension pole, for large surfaces. These items come in all the grits that regular sand paper comes in. Depending on the size of the job you may want to set up a dust barrier this may be as simple as closing the room door or setting up a plastic wall.
Check out these links:
http://www.dap.com/product_details.aspx?product_id=61
http://www.buzzle.com/articles/quick-set-hot-mud-and-drywall-repair.html
http://www.askthebuilder.com/B387_Ten_Secret_Drywall_Finishing_Tips.shtml
November 21, 2011
Drywall Joint Banding in Painted Walls!
Due to the building boom of a few years ago. There was a high number of people who got into the painting industry with little to no Experience. If your house was painted by one of those, theres a chance you may have some joint banding.
Joint Banding or Telegraphing is the visual difference in the painted wall surface area, where the Joint compound is applied on the sheetrock. Either along the edges, seams, or nail heads, anywhere the joint compound is. In low light situations the wall may seem fine but if you have a large wall area that is lighted or you have a lot of natural light, this difference will show up easily when not properly finished. A drywall finish Level 4, is what is required for house walls. This produces a smooth and level surface to the touch, so even though you see the difference in the wall surface, when you run your hand across it, it feels smooth to the touch.
The problem is produced by the 2 different surfaces. First the actual sheet rock, and then the Drywall compound. You may have noticed that sheetrock is paper coated, and the surface of the drywall mud is different. When there is no primer/sealer applied, to these two surfaces, prior to the top coat, they will absorb the wet paint differently, and dry at different rates. Therefore they reflect light light differently, resulting in the visual difference that you see. This shows up in Shiny finishes more than Flat finishes.
The Fix!
Paint another topcoat! This will usually do the trick in getting enough coats of paint to cover and blend. A tited primer/sealer should have been used prior to top coating. Always get you primer color tinted.
If you had a Flat paint on your walls and see this, then your builder or painter used a cheaper product than they should have. Normally 2 good quality coats of flat paint will cover and not show any telegraphing. We would recommend Porter Paints' - Vinyl Flat, or Bher Premium Plus for flat paints.
More than likely though, you have a shiny paint finish, Egg shell, Satin, or Semi gloss. The highest sheen wall paint we recommend for inside houses, is a Satin finish. When painting walls, shiney finishes show any type of banding or Drywall mistakes much more readily than flat finishes. For a residence, when putting a shiny finish on, you may choose to either Prime/Seal the wall prior to putting 2 finish coats on it, or you may have to paint a third top coat as I recommended above. If you choose not to prime your walls, then once you have painted 2 coats on (always paint 2 top coats) then you can judge as to whether it needs that 3rd coat on it to cover it up. Sheet Rock in residential houses does not necessarily have to be primed. For Historic houses and buildings, and commercial properties, the walls are always primed/sealed, and then painted with 2 top coats.
Another option is to use the self priming paints. Always be aware no matter what you originally choose to do, some colors just plain do not cover as good as others and may need another coat. It is normal that the higher the paint sheen, the less pigment the paint has in it, and therefore does not cover as well.
Joint Banding or Telegraphing is the visual difference in the painted wall surface area, where the Joint compound is applied on the sheetrock. Either along the edges, seams, or nail heads, anywhere the joint compound is. In low light situations the wall may seem fine but if you have a large wall area that is lighted or you have a lot of natural light, this difference will show up easily when not properly finished. A drywall finish Level 4, is what is required for house walls. This produces a smooth and level surface to the touch, so even though you see the difference in the wall surface, when you run your hand across it, it feels smooth to the touch.
The problem is produced by the 2 different surfaces. First the actual sheet rock, and then the Drywall compound. You may have noticed that sheetrock is paper coated, and the surface of the drywall mud is different. When there is no primer/sealer applied, to these two surfaces, prior to the top coat, they will absorb the wet paint differently, and dry at different rates. Therefore they reflect light light differently, resulting in the visual difference that you see. This shows up in Shiny finishes more than Flat finishes.
The Fix!
Paint another topcoat! This will usually do the trick in getting enough coats of paint to cover and blend. A tited primer/sealer should have been used prior to top coating. Always get you primer color tinted.
If you had a Flat paint on your walls and see this, then your builder or painter used a cheaper product than they should have. Normally 2 good quality coats of flat paint will cover and not show any telegraphing. We would recommend Porter Paints' - Vinyl Flat, or Bher Premium Plus for flat paints.
More than likely though, you have a shiny paint finish, Egg shell, Satin, or Semi gloss. The highest sheen wall paint we recommend for inside houses, is a Satin finish. When painting walls, shiney finishes show any type of banding or Drywall mistakes much more readily than flat finishes. For a residence, when putting a shiny finish on, you may choose to either Prime/Seal the wall prior to putting 2 finish coats on it, or you may have to paint a third top coat as I recommended above. If you choose not to prime your walls, then once you have painted 2 coats on (always paint 2 top coats) then you can judge as to whether it needs that 3rd coat on it to cover it up. Sheet Rock in residential houses does not necessarily have to be primed. For Historic houses and buildings, and commercial properties, the walls are always primed/sealed, and then painted with 2 top coats.
Another option is to use the self priming paints. Always be aware no matter what you originally choose to do, some colors just plain do not cover as good as others and may need another coat. It is normal that the higher the paint sheen, the less pigment the paint has in it, and therefore does not cover as well.
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